This is not possible in the master release of Dash DataTable. There are two options right now:
1 - Use html.Table as in Coloured text in a table - conditional formatting
2 - Use a prototype branch of Dash DataTable as in https://github.com/plotly/dash-table-experiments/pull/11#issuecomment-352106827. This isn’t 100% stable yet and the API may change in the future. We’ll likely need some more commercial sponsorship (https://plot.ly/products/consulting-and-oem) to wrap this one up.
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